The Old City Walls Walk

So 3 weeks after my last foray out in balmy conditions to the old town and I find myself back in the middle of winter! I saw an ad in one of the Shanghai listings mags for a guided  city walk around the old walls and boundarys,. Thought it would be good to have another look, take some more photos and get some of the history.  Katya, from Russia, has been in Shanghai for 5 years by way of south Korea, and has become fascinated with the overlooked history of the old town. So fascinated, she has nearly finished a book. It will be the only English written book, to give maps and information on the history of this amazing, and potentially disappearing area of Old Shanghai. Hopefully to be published in january.

The small group, met in a hostel just off of Penglai Lu, I would have walked past it with the hustle and bustle of the market stalls to distract me. Tucked away in a courtyard behind an old camelia tree, a refuge from the bustling streets.

So while we warmed up with teas and coffees Katya gave an intersting talk, outlining the history of Shanghai and the old town, which was a community way back in the 13thC. So after half and hour of great info we wandered out on to the lanes. Again, more fantastic photo opportunities from these teaming streets. I cant get enough of them! The characters!

Seemed to be a particularly fishy day, great long fish not eels, anybody know what they are. Fish sliced through and hanging up to dry. Bowls of fish. Escaping fish. Bowls of cockles and clams.

Dai Yu-need to look that up as I dont know what they are!

 Washing, and the fish, out to dry...salted

Curious, I asked this local what these were?  Zhe jiao shen me? "Dong Sun".  Winter bamboo shoots. Now you know (and also that is about as good as my mandarin gets!!)

We ventured into some hidden ancient Ming dynasty buildings.  As most of these buildings are communal and home to many families and migrant workers, they are viewed as public spaces so its ok to go in. I will be more inquisitive in future! A mix of old and new, destroyed and defaced by the japanese and the revolution, patched and divided.

We went into an ancient merchants house, up 3 floors of ancient stone and wooden steps, in semi-darkness, to the roof top. Tiny rooms sublet as appartments, bare walls and floors.

Apparently these telephone numbers will help get you a false ID card..

A great view across the old town, tiled roofs, courtyards, contrasting against the newer appartments and the iconic buildings across the river.

This became a smelting yard in the revolution.

Ancient city boundary stones.

And carved stones used to infill walls

A fire look out tower, apparently inspired by the Eiffel Tower!  When we arrived there I was amazed to see it situated in a court yard surrounded by outdoor kitchens and many tiny flats. the key to open the door to climb it is, apparently, elusive.

Rental prices around here, around 400Y (£40) a month for a basic 6m sq room. No bathroom, no water. Up to 1000Y would maybe get you 2 rooms and access to a shared bathroom.....Sobering. Very central though, and the first stop for a migrant worker who may get a job as a rubbish sweeper, cleaner or similar.

We walked out of the rambling lane, which twisted and turned. It follows the path of an old creek which was filled in, probably by the British as they were full of water borne diseases. Down roads with much clearing and building going on, to Dongjiadu Church, or St Xavier Cathedral. Pristine and beautiful inside, standing in amongst construction sites on the South bund. This church was only restored in the 90s after it was rediscovered, and the warehouse that had taken over was ripped out.

On to another lane, Wanyu Lu, I think, where the locals were clinging on until the last possible moment as the old streets are being pulled down around them. It was quite unbelievable, living amongst the debris, chickens running over the rubble, washing still hanging out.

Hard hats mixing with the locals...

No 13 hanging on in there...

Doors being blocked up within the last few weeks.

I felt today like I had spent the morning in a time warp. In another century. Its quite humbling to see how so many people are still living, and I wonder for how long? I imagine, for these inhabitants, this is what life in the industrial revolution was like. Living many to a room, with no hot water, and not a lot of privacy. But today, contrasting with high technology, I-phones, immense wealth, and the shimmering high rise of Pudong, it seems so surreal.

But so much life going on. And lovely people. I love it!

This apparently, says we have moved to new premises....in 1957

Dog Wash

Fully fitted kitchens..think of these when you're cooking your turkey!

Happy Xmas
Sheng Dan Kuai Le